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If the link is bent badly, cut the main portion of the link out. I leave a 1.5" piece of the stock tubing on the end of the rod. I cut the traverse links 13" long.

Believe it or not, you can clean up a totally screwed up link like the one on top. It just takes a bit of elbow grease. I used a cut off wheel to remove the angle iron and then used a sanding disc to clean it up the rest of the way. Bevel the end just a hair so it slips into the 1x.063 tubing. (it's a perfect fit)

To get my links the correct length, I took the straight link, ran a bolt thru each end and then located where the ends of the tube would end up. Draw a line, tap the cleaned up end into the new tube up to the mark and weld. Now go back, stick the other end in and tap it into place - I used the two bolts to make it all align. You can hit the end that's not been welded in with a hammer and get the twist alignment right. When the bolts both go thru easily, everything's straight and read to finish welding up.

You can make even stronger links out of the straight traverse links. I cut them in two, and then pounded the two ends into a 13" long 1x.063 tube. Once the ends hit, you're done. Check twist alignment, fix if needed and weld. Make sure you dip each end in water as soon as your done - otherwise you'll melt the gromment.

Here are all six links - four traverse, two drag, done. The drag links are tough, they oval near the ends. Use 11.0" long tubing on them. I did them the same way I did the front traverse links - I kept the entire tube length, just cut them in two and drove them into the chromoly tubing